<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><rss xmlns:atom='http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom' xmlns:openSearch='http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearchrss/1.0/' xmlns:georss='http://www.georss.org/georss' version='2.0'><channel><atom:id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265</atom:id><lastBuildDate>Wed, 24 Jun 2009 06:12:44 +0000</lastBuildDate><title>Mark-Rodgers.com</title><description></description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/projects.html</link><managingEditor>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</managingEditor><generator>Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>16</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>25</openSearch:itemsPerPage><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-4068337219644939393</guid><pubDate>Wed, 24 Jun 2009 05:56:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-06-23T23:12:44.831-07:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Computer</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>CB</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Power Supply</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Ham</category><title>Convert Computer Power Supply to use for CB / Ham radio</title><description>&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Got a old computer or power supply laying around?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Put it to good use, by converting it to a 12 volt supply for a CB or small ham radio.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;1st of all, most power supplies cant just be wired to work for 12 volts, the right way.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Im using an older power supply, not sure what the type is (sorry) but it used a push button hard on/off switch on the computer.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;**Make sure the power cord is disconnected**&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Take the power supply apart.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;I removed the old push button on/off switch and re-wired it to a SPST 6a/125v toggle switch.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;I drilled it into the case, above the power cord location. This allows me to have a self contained switch, instead of one hanging on a cord.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3479-750159.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3479-750141.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Yellow wires are going to be you +12volt.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Black wired are Neg.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Red wires are +5 volt.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;White wire is -5volt&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Blue wire is -12 volt.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Remove the Blue, White and all but 1 red wire. Just cut them as close to the pins as possible.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;You will need 1 red wire.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;You will also need a 10 ohm, 10 watt resistor, available from Radio shack.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;This will need to be wired and soldered inline with a Black Negative wire, to put a load on the +5volt circuit. Without this, your power supply wont produce the correct voltage.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Without a load on the +5volt circuit, I tested 10.2 volts on the 12volt wires. After adding the load resistor, I got 12.1 volts.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;You will need to secure the resistor to a heat sink or to the case, with zip ties, because this will need some metal to cool it, as it will get hot. You can put it near the fan too, to keep it cooler.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3481-750211.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3481-750201.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3484-732105.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3484-731962.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;I also found the  voltage regulator VR pot, and I adjusted it to the max, which gave me 12.5volts, which makes it even better for 12 volt equipment.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3485-732176.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3485-732159.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Now all you need to do is limit the amount of +12voltwires and Negitivewires that you will need, as there are probably more than you will ever need. I cust all but 4 of each.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Now put the power supply back together, and thats it!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Now I have a 12 volt, 7 amp power supply for under $5 in parts.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-4068337219644939393?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/06/convert-computer-power-supply-to-use.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-6493033688165836964</guid><pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2009 07:26:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-06-09T01:01:22.167-07:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>CB</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Audio</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Mod Audio</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Talkback</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>CB Radios</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Cobra</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Uniden</category><title>Cobra 25, 29 Uniden PC 66, 68, 78 Talkback Mod</title><description>&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;This is a easy $1 mod to add talkback to your CB Radio.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;This will work for the following radios with no problems.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Cobra 25&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Cobra29&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Uniden 66&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Uniden 68&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Uniden 76&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Uniden 78&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;and many more.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;All you need is a simple resistor added to the bottom of the board, near the Ext and Pa speaker jacks.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Find the 2 solder points, closest to the rear of the radio, directly above the EXT and Pa jacks.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;These are going to be the Negative or Ground side for the audio.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Solder a 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistor between these two solder points. Make sure that the resistor itself does not short out anything on the board or touch anything else. You can wrap it in tape, heat shrink or just keep it lifted slightly above the board.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="text-decoration: underline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Cobra-Uniden-Talkback-Mod-746930.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Cobra-Uniden-Talkback-Mod-746925.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="text-decoration: underline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Use a 100-500 ohm resistor.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;The Lower the resistance is, the Louder it will be.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;A 100 ohm will be Louder than a 470 ohm.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;I like to use a 220 for most mics, or a 470 for good power mics.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;You can also wire up a 1K variable pot to adjust the volume level.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;You can also use a switch to turn it on/off, just wire it in series.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Ive used the Norm/Ch9/Ch19 switch as a Off/Low/Hi with 2 resistors, to make it adjustable for different mics or volume levels.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Thats it! Just 2 solder points for basic talkback.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-6493033688165836964?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/06/cobra-25-29-uniden-pc-66-68-78-talkback.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-5186101904238510659</guid><pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2009 06:30:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-06-08T23:48:55.417-07:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>repair</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>CB</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Microphone</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Cobra</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Uniden</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>fix</category><title>CB Mic Connector Problem</title><description>&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;If you have ever had a CB mic that randomly cuts out on the Receive, Transmit or Audio, even when you have checked the wiring in the plug and it seems fine, then this is the EASY fix for most radios.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Most radios, including Cobra, Uniden, Galaxy and more use a connector that can fail easily, but its a simple 30 second FREE fix.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;This is only for 4 pin microphone connectors, as the 5 and 6 pin are built different.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;If you look closely at the male pins on the radio's connector, you will notice that they are split down the center. I have found over the years that these pins tend to get pinched together and flattened, when they should be slightly spaced apart, to create a good electrical connection.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3455-752635.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3455-752621.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/4-Pin-Mic-Connector-777846.bmp"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 155px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/4-Pin-Mic-Connector-777838.bmp" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Simply take a small flat head screwdriver and push it into the slots on the pins and spread them SLIGHTLY apart. Spread them less than 1mm. If you spread them too much, you can bend they way out of place and they may break when trying to bend it back. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;This allows the MALE pins to fit better into the FEMALE holes in the mic's plug. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;this should solve most problems, as long as the wires are soldered properly. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;I have done this in over 50 radios over the years after other people have tried to re-wire mic plugs and swap out mics endlessly, when it was just a simple bad connection thats easily overlooked. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-5186101904238510659?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/06/cb-mic-connector-problem.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-7578457342661204142</guid><pubDate>Thu, 14 May 2009 05:31:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-05-13T22:59:07.331-07:00</atom:updated><title>Sirius Sat Radio Antenna Hack / Mod</title><description>&lt;div style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial;"&gt;Sirius XACT XTR3 Tuner.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial;" &gt;This will mod improve the FM radio signal on your unit.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial;" &gt;Open the unit up by removing the 2 screws on the bottom, using a Hex screwdriver.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial;" &gt;Remove the top cover.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial;" &gt;The large copper wire circle is the FM broadcast antenna that sends the signal to your radio.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Sirius-XACT-XTR3-Inside-764679.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Sirius-XACT-XTR3-Inside-764509.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial;" &gt;There are 2 ways to improve your signal.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial;" &gt;#1. Find the top part of the loop wire, and CUT it at the connection point to the board. Cut it in 2 places, about 1mm apart, so that it cant touch anymore. This goes back to ground and decreases the range.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Sirius-XACT-XTR3-Antenna-771455.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Sirius-XACT-XTR3-Antenna-771307.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial;" &gt;#2. Do the #1 mod, but also solder a 31" piece of thin wire (24-18gauge) to the BOTTOM connection point.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Sirius-XACT-XTR3-Antenna-2-735409.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Sirius-XACT-XTR3-Antenna-2-735247.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial;" &gt;This will now be a full length wire antenna.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial;" &gt;This wire will be tuned to the 89 MHZ portion of the radio band, which is where most Sat Radios are tuned to, due to empty radio stations in that range.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial;" &gt;Try to keep the wire straight, and not bunched or coiled up.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-7578457342661204142?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/05/sirius-sat-radio-antenna-hack-mod.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-4954291353680680719</guid><pubDate>Thu, 14 May 2009 02:15:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-05-13T19:29:28.716-07:00</atom:updated><title>Radio Shack HTX-242 COS / COR Mod</title><description>&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;This is a mod for the Radio Shack HTX 242 radio.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;It allows this 2 Meter Ham Radio mobile to allow COS /COR sense to be used for a repeater RX or other use requiring squelch or signal sense.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Open the bottom cover on the radio by removing the 4 screws.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Radio-Shack-HTX-202-Bottom-Inside-746250.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Radio-Shack-HTX-202-Bottom-Inside-746079.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;On the radio's front right, find the 3 transistors about 1 inch in from both the front and right side.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;There is a resistor with a "473" printed on it, just below the top transistor. Tap off the RIGHT side of this resistor.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Radio-Shack-HTX-202-COS-Mod-746295.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Radio-Shack-HTX-202-COS-Mod-746286.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;This will provide ~ +3VDC when no signal is present, and will drop to 0v when there is a signal.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;This is a High to Low signal point. Most repeater controllers can be switched to select the correct setting. If not, you can make a small signal transistor switching circuit.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-4954291353680680719?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/05/radio-shack-htx-242-cos-cor-mod.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-1194038038979775367</guid><pubDate>Thu, 14 May 2009 00:46:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-05-13T18:10:30.967-07:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Audio</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>XM HACK</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>RCA</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Mod</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>XM RADIO</category><title>XM Radio Mod / Hack - Pioneer GEX-FM903XM</title><description>&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;This is the mod /hack for the Pioneer GEX-FM903XM tuner. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Open the case with the 4 screws.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Remove the screw for the heat sink for the Voltage Regulator transistors.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Remove the screw in the center of the board.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Twist the metal pieces along the edge of the board that are used as hold downs.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;You can tap the audio in 2 different places.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;#1. Tap near the 8pin IC near the center of the board, on the top.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;There are 2 surface mount resistors, one above and one below the IC. They are both Grey in color . Tap the left side of each.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/XM--Pioneer-903-FM--1-758814.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/XM--Pioneer-903-FM--1-758800.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;This will give you your Left and Right channel + audio.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;You can get ground - from one of many place. You can use the center screw in the middle of the board, or one of the metal lids over the DIGITAL or ANTENNA modules.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;#2 spot is on the bottom of the board.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;There are some test points on the top left of the board.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Locate the 3  test points labeled:&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;RCH  AGND  LCH&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/XM--Pioneer-903-FM--2-758850.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/XM--Pioneer-903-FM--2-758843.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;These are the Right Channel, Audio Ground and Left Channel.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Simply tap all 3 of these for audio.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;That is all there is to it, for getting RCA audio out of the Pioneer GEX FM 903 XM tuner. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-1194038038979775367?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/05/xm-radio-mod-hack-pioneer-gex-fm903xm.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-1715729629968539798</guid><pubDate>Wed, 06 May 2009 02:13:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-05-05T19:52:45.580-07:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Schematic</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Tone</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Selectone</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>DTMF</category><title>Selectone ST-907 Programmer Board</title><description>&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;I had a request by E-Mail to help a fellow HAM operator get info or a schematic on the no longer supported Selecton Model ST-907  programmer board for DTMF and ANI Tone Encoder boards. Selectone no longer has any info on it, so I made up a schematic.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3382-701113.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3382-701098.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Selectone-ST-907-PCB-712184.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 242px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Selectone-ST-907-PCB-711919.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Parts List, From Left to Right.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;36 Pin Parallel Printer Connector&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;9v Battery Clip&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;13 Pin programming connector for Selectone boards&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Zenier Diode&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;10K 5% 1/4w Resistor&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;10K 5% 1/4w Resistor&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;100K 5% 1/4w Resistor&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Zenier Diode&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;47K 5% 1/4w Resistor&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;47K 5% 1/4w Resistor&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;2N4401 Transistor&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;47K 5% 1/4w Resistor&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;10K 5% 1/4w Resistor&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;2N3906 Transistor&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;10K 5% 1/4w Resistor&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;All the pins #19-36 are connected to ground/neg.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;12 holes are provided on the bottom of board for prototyping, testing or direct wiring.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;My schematic isnt 100% exactly the same on the trace locations, and its not to scale, but the original board used a double sided traces, so I had to modify it a little bit for one sided viewing,  so it wouldnt get confused, as some traces were too close or overlapped on top and bottom.  I did try to get it as close as possible tho.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Software for the ST-907 board can still be found on the Selectone website.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" href="http://www.com-spec.com/selectone/download/st_confg.zip"&gt;http://www.com-spec.com/selectone/download/st_confg.zip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;I made the schematic using a cool program called ExpressSCH. You can built schematics and have a company make PCB boards for you for a reasonable price, if you wish.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;The software can be found below for FREE!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" href="http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/Free_schematic_software.htm"&gt;http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/Free_schematic_software.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;Here is my file for the Selectone ST-907 Board.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/Project%20Pics/Selectone%20ST-907.sch"&gt;http://www.mark-rodgers.com/Project%20Pics/Selectone%20ST-907.sch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"&gt;Please let me know if you have trouble downloading the file.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-1715729629968539798?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/05/selectone-st-907-programmer-board.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-7031656604700174897</guid><pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2009 21:24:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-04-16T14:43:43.412-07:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Mods</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>CB</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Audio</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>CB Radios</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Channel</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Cobra</category><title>Cobra 148 GTL Audio and Power Mods.</title><description>A simple way to really increase the audio of a Cobra 148 GTL CB radio is to find R126 and jumper it. It is a 10K ohm resistor about 1" to the LEFT of the MIC jack.&lt;br /&gt;Do NOT remove the TR25 Mod Limiter on this radio, as it will sound like crap later.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;To add extra channels install 2 switches in the radio, or use the HI/LOW and BRT/DIM switches on the front.&lt;br /&gt;My friend wanted 2 new switches on the rear, so thats what I did with this radio.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;You will need 2 SPST switches.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Find the PLL IC and find pins 10, 11 and 12 and the large Ground trace near pin 10.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3363-746880.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3363-746873.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Wire Switch 1 to Pin 10 (pin goes to nothing) and also to GND pad.&lt;br /&gt;Wire Switch 2 to pin 11 and pin  12.&lt;br /&gt;Be very careful to not use too much heat on the IC pins, and they are fragile and you can damage the PLL chip. Use a 30watt max solder pencil.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3366-790700.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3366-790685.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-7031656604700174897?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/04/cobra-148-gtl-audio-and-power-mods.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-8758507192684594945</guid><pubDate>Wed, 08 Apr 2009 05:22:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-04-08T19:06:45.207-07:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Mods</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>CB</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Audio</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Uniden</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Uniden CB Mods Hack PC66</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Power</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>PC68</category><title>Uniden PC 66 and PC 68 Audio and Power Mods</title><description>Here is a simple $5 way to crank your Uniden PC 66 or PC 68 radio to be a loud talker.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Parts you need.&lt;br /&gt;35volt 220uf Electrolytic Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;10 Ohm, 1watt resistor&lt;br /&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;1st we'll do the &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;audio&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;There is no internal &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;VR#&lt;/span&gt; adjustment pot to turn up on this radio, just on the front.&lt;br /&gt;Doing a few small mods opens it up about 40% more audio. You may not need any power mic after this mod.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;On the PC 66 look right below the mic connector.&lt;br /&gt;On the PC 68 its on the front right side, near the edge fine these 4 parts.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;R76&lt;/span&gt; Remove and add Jumper wire across this.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;R78&lt;/span&gt; Remove (Added resistance on audio line to ground)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Q14&lt;/span&gt; Remove (Mod Limiter)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;C97&lt;/span&gt; Remove (Filtered Audio to Ground)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3346-732395.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3346-732382.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;This basically opens up the restrictions on the audio pre-amp circuit.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;If you plan to use a good power mc, you might need to leave C97 in to reduce RF squeal or hum.&lt;br /&gt;Some people prefer to leave the mod limiters in, to reduce splatter, but for a LOUD radio, I a remove it on this model.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Next is the &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;power&lt;/span&gt; output.&lt;br /&gt;This is a touchy subject for some people, but I prefer to use "swing kits" in my radios.&lt;br /&gt;I like to have my radio deadkey low, and swing high when I talk.&lt;br /&gt;This add a lot more audio and "punch" to your voice.&lt;br /&gt;What it basically does is lowers your output when your not talking, and raises it when you do talk. This reduces the power load on the radio, due to poor design, and "reserves" some power for your audio.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;To add the swing kit, find &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;JV17&lt;/span&gt; in the back of the radio, in front of the Final.&lt;br /&gt;Remove this jumper wire.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3347-732226.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3347-732221.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Now install your 35volt, 220uf Capacitor in this spot. Use the NEGATIVE side in the hole towards the BACK of the radio. Insulate the wire with tape or heat shirnk tubing to prevent it from shorting the metal nearby.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3358-779799.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3358-779783.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Now flip the radio upside down.&lt;br /&gt;Find where you remove the jumper wire, and install the 1W, 10 Ohm resistor.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3357-734858.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3357-734851.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Now that you have installed everything, tune the radio. On most of these radios, you dont need to adjust the &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;L10&lt;/span&gt; coil, but some radios are off a little bit from the factory.&lt;br /&gt;Spread the coils on &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;L8&lt;/span&gt; apart slightly.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3359-736475.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3359-736459.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;You can also replace the c2028 Final transistor with a high power 2sc1969. This will be a great mod, if you can happen to find them, as they have been discontinued and are getting harder to find new.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;That's it!&lt;br /&gt;Thats the secret to tuning up a Uniden PC 66 or PC68.&lt;br /&gt;Save yourself $20-50 at a radio repair shop, if you want to do this work yourself.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-8758507192684594945?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/04/uniden-pc-68-audio-and-power-mods.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-6362623429559104513</guid><pubDate>Wed, 25 Mar 2009 07:15:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-03-25T11:22:05.863-07:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Boost</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>CB</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Electronics</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>PLL</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Mod</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Cobra</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Uniden</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Receive</category><title>RX Recieve boost on Cobra 29 and Uniden PC 78</title><description>Here is a very simple was to use 1 or 2 components to add super recieve boost to a Cobra 29 or Uniden PC78 CB radio.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Parts + tools required:&lt;br /&gt;CB radio (duh)&lt;br /&gt;Soldering pencil 15-40w. Do NOT use a large gun.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062717"&gt;Small solder&lt;/a&gt; like .032" 60/40 mix or similar mix.&lt;br /&gt;22-24guage wire&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062335"&gt;220k&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062336"&gt;470k&lt;/a&gt; ohm 1/4 or 1/2watt resistor.&lt;br /&gt;Simple SPST switch or existing switch on radio.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Disconect the power cord from the radio. Dont do any work with it plugged in, just in case.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;1st find &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;pin 14&lt;/span&gt; on the PLL of the radio. Do this with the radio upside down, front facing you.&lt;br /&gt;you will see that Pin 14 is a blank pin with no traces, or it may have a small capacitor on it going to the large ground trace.&lt;br /&gt;Solder a wire to that, being very carefully not to use too much heat or leave it on too long, as the PLL chip is very fragile.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Cobra29PLL-756302.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 394px; height: 295px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/Cobra29PLL-756291.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Attach this wire to your switch with about 4-8" of wire, depending where your switch is located.  If using an existing switch read below. I prefer to use the pointless CH9 switch.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;On the other side of the switch connect your resistor. Be sure to trim the resistor so it doesnt have a long leg to where it may touch anything else.&lt;br /&gt;On the other side of the resistor, add about 6-8" of wire.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Now find &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Resistor R11&lt;/span&gt;. You will need to tap the wire onto this resistor on the end of the resistor closest to the BACK of the radio. If you test it, you should get about  + 0.8volts from here.  This is going to supply the power for you receive boost.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3323-705936.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 381px; height: 286px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3323-705923.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Thats it! 2 wires, a switch and a resistor.&lt;br /&gt;The reason you need a switch is cause this is going to be VERY sensitive and you should only use it when you need it, cause strong signals may peg your meter.&lt;br /&gt;I got results of a signal of 2db with the boost off. I flipped it on and it jumped to 10+db.&lt;br /&gt;This doesnt just increase the meter reading. It boosts up the actual receive and makes it so much louder and clearer.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I recomend using the 470k ohm resistor as the 220k may be too high, and the 470k is plenty for any of my customer's needs.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;This should work on all the Cobra 29 models.&lt;br /&gt;Cobra 29 WX&lt;br /&gt;Cobra 29 LTD&lt;br /&gt;Cobra 29 Classic&lt;br /&gt;Cobra 29 ST&lt;br /&gt;or any other variation, &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Except the older D858 PLL chip. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;It also works for the Uniden PC 78 models or any variation.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-6362623429559104513?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/03/rx-recieve-boost-on-cobra-29-and-uniden.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-1771795330781615976</guid><pubDate>Sun, 08 Mar 2009 08:35:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-03-08T00:37:04.119-08:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>SMS Cell Phone Text Message E-Mail</category><title>Send a text message via E-Mail</title><description>&lt;h2&gt;Free Email To SMS Gateways (Major US Carriers)&lt;/h2&gt; &lt;div align="center"&gt; &lt;table align="center"&gt; &lt;tbody&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt; &lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt; &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carrier&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Email to SMS Gateway&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Alltel&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt; [10-digit phone number]@message.alltel.com&lt;br /&gt;Example: 1234567890@message.alltel.com &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;AT&amp;amp;T (formerly Cingular)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt; [10-digit phone number]@txt.att.net&lt;br /&gt;[10-digit phone number]@mms.att.net (MMS)&lt;br /&gt;[10-digit phone number]@cingularme.com&lt;br /&gt;Example: 1234567890@txt.att.net &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Boost Mobile&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt; [10-digit phone number]@myboostmobile.com&lt;br /&gt;Example: 1234567890@myboostmobile.com &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Nextel (now Sprint Nextel)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt; [10-digit telephone number]@messaging.nextel.com&lt;br /&gt;Example: 1234567890@messaging.nextel.com &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Sprint PCS (now Sprint Nextel)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt; [10-digit phone number]@messaging.sprintpcs.com&lt;br /&gt;[10-digit phone number]@pm.sprint.com (MMS)&lt;br /&gt;Example: 1234567890@messaging.sprintpcs.com &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;T-Mobile&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt; [10-digit phone number]@tmomail.net&lt;br /&gt;Example: 1234567890@tmomail.net &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;US Cellular&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt; [10-digit phone number]email.uscc.net (SMS)&lt;br /&gt;[10-digit phone number]@mms.uscc.net (MMS)&lt;br /&gt;Example: 1234567890@email.uscc.net &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Verizon&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt; [10-digit phone number]@vtext.com&lt;br /&gt;[10-digit phone number]@vzwpix.com (MMS)&lt;br /&gt;Example: 1234567890@vtext.com &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Virgin Mobile USA&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt; [10-digit phone number]@vmobl.com&lt;br /&gt;Example: 1234567890@vmobl.com &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;/tbody&gt;&lt;/table&gt; &lt;/div&gt; &lt;h2&gt;Free Email To SMS Gateways (International + Smaller US)&lt;/h2&gt; &lt;p&gt;These are all I could find from &lt;a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMS_gateway"&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; and other sources. If you’re aware of any other ones please share them in comments and I’ll add them to the list.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;div align="center"&gt; &lt;table align="center"&gt; &lt;tbody&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt; &lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt; &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carrier&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Email to SMS Gateway&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;7-11 Speakout (USA GSM)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@cingularme.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Airtel (Karnataka, India)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@airtelkk.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Airtel Wireless (Montana, USA)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.airtelmontana.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Alaska Communications Systems&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@msg.acsalaska.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Aql&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@text.aql.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;AT&amp;amp;T Enterprise Paging&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@page.att.net&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;BigRedGiant Mobile Solutions&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@tachyonsms.co.uk&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Bell Mobility &amp;amp; Solo Mobile (Canada)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@txt.bell.ca &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;BPL Mobile (Mumbai, India)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@bplmobile.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Cellular One (Dobson)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@mobile.celloneusa.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Cingular (Postpaid)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@cingularme.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Centennial Wireless&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@cwemail.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Cingular (GoPhone prepaid)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;number@cingularme.com (SMS)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Claro (Brasil)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@clarotorpedo.com.br&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Claro (Nicaragua)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@ideasclaro-ca.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Comcel&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@comcel.com.co&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Cricket&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.mycricket.com (SMS) &lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;CTI&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.ctimovil.com.ar&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Emtel (Mauritius)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@emtelworld.net&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Fido (Canada)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@fido.ca&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;General Communications Inc.&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@msg.gci.net&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Globalstar (satellite)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@msg.globalstarusa.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Helio&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@messaging.sprintpcs.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Illinois Valley Cellular&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@ivctext.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Iridium (satellite)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@msg.iridium.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Iusacell&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@rek2.com.mx&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;i wireless&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;.iws@iwspcs.net&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Koodo Mobile (Canada)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@msg.koodomobile.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;LMT (Latvia)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.lmt.lv&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Meteor (Ireland)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.mymeteor.ie&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Mero Mobile (Nepal)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;977number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.spicenepal.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;MetroPCS&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@mymetropcs.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Movicom (Argentina)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;em&gt;number&lt;/em&gt;@sms.movistar.net.ar&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Mobitel (Sri Lanka)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.mobitel.lk&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Movistar (Colombia)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@movistar.com.co&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;MTN (South Africa)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.co.za&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;MTS (Canada)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@text.mtsmobility.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Nextel (United States)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@messaging.nextel.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Nextel (Argentina)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;TwoWay.11&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@nextel.net.ar&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Orange Polska (Poland)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;9digit&lt;/i&gt;@orange.pl&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Personal (Argentina)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@alertas.personal.com.ar&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Plus GSM (Poland)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;+48&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@text.plusgsm.pl&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;President’s Choice (Canada)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@txt.bell.ca&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Qwest&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@qwestmp.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Rogers (Canada)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@pcs.rogers.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;SL Interactive (Australia)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@slinteractive.com.au&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Sasktel (Canada)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.sasktel.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Setar Mobile email (Aruba)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;297+number&lt;/i&gt;@mas.aw&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Suncom&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@tms.suncom.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;T-Mobile (Austria)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.t-mobile.at&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;T-Mobile (UK)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@t-mobile.uk.net&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Telus Mobility (Canada)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@msg.telus.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Thumb Cellular&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.thumbcellular.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Tigo (Formerly Ola)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.tigo.com.co&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Tracfone (prepaid)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@mmst5.tracfone.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Unicel&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@utext.com&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Virgin Mobile (Canada)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@vmobile.ca&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Vodacom (South Africa)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@voda.co.za&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;Vodafone (Italy)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.vodafone.it&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;YCC&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@sms.ycc.ru&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;tr&gt; &lt;td&gt;MobiPCS (Hawaii only)&lt;/td&gt; &lt;td&gt;&lt;i&gt;number&lt;/i&gt;@mobipcs.net&lt;/td&gt; &lt;/tr&gt; &lt;/tbody&gt;&lt;/table&gt; &lt;/div&gt; &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATES:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;If you can’t find a gateway for your current provider here, check out following links:&lt;/p&gt; &lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.tech-faq.com/send-text-messages-free.shtml" target="_blank"&gt;http://www.tech-faq.com/send-text-messages-free.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.mutube.com/projects/open-email-to-sms/gateway-list/" target="_blank"&gt;http://www.mutube.com/projects/open-email-to-sms/gateway-list/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.notepage.net/smtp.htm" target="_blank"&gt;http://www.notepage.net/smtp.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-1771795330781615976?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/03/send-text-message-via-e-mail.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-2170265719809896277</guid><pubDate>Fri, 06 Mar 2009 02:37:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-03-07T10:13:13.556-08:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>echo</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>repair</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>CB</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>radio</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>fix</category><title>CB Echo board audio problems</title><description>As a CB tech, I have worked on lots of radios, and I have had to fix many hack jobs.&lt;br /&gt;One problem I have come across a lot lately is echo boards not working right.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The main problem I see is a echo board that requires 8volts, but the hack tech hooked it up directly to 12-14 volts. This can blow the board, but luckily most of the time it just makes it squeal and hum. If it takes 8 volts, its as simply as tapping into the 8 volt regulator. 95% of radios have this on the board.&lt;br /&gt;Most &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Cobra&lt;/span&gt; radios use &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;TR23&lt;/span&gt; for 8 volts.&lt;br /&gt;Most &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Galaxy&lt;/span&gt; radios use &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Q37&lt;/span&gt; or &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;TR41&lt;/span&gt; for 8 volt supply.&lt;br /&gt;They are the large transistor in the front right of the radio, when the face is towards you, component side up.&lt;br /&gt;Simply use a volt meter and tap there. Walla, No squeal, No Hum.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The next problem is the adjustment for the echo time.&lt;br /&gt;For some reason, some boards wont do a slow echo. If you turn the speed to the left of center, it turns off. This is a problem with the board setup, but it can be solved easy.&lt;br /&gt;Simply remove the Ground/Shield wire from the time pot, and relocate it to the Ground/Shield of the Amount pot. This will allow the adjustment to be turned down all the way, and have slower echo.&lt;br /&gt;Sometimes this will create a hum when its all the way down. If so, add a .1uf capacitor to the now empty left pin of the speed pot, to either the 2 ground/shield wires or to the metal frame of the pot, where there may be another capacitor located. This should remove the hum when you turn the speed all the way down.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.loudmouthradios.com/"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.loudmouthradios.com/"&gt;http://www.LoudMouthRadios.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/LMR-Banner-716471.png"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 449px; height: 58px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/LMR-Banner-716467.png" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-2170265719809896277?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/03/cb-echo-board-audio-problems.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-8779596472787497397</guid><pubDate>Sat, 31 Jan 2009 07:07:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-01-30T23:43:43.339-08:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>MP3 Player Fix</category><title>Hannah Montana MP3 Player - Volume Fix</title><description>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3217-705156.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 93px; height: 124px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3217-705129.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3218-709637.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 97px; height: 130px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3218-709623.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I bought my daughter a Hanna Montanna MP3 player from JC Penny for her birthday. It was on clearance, and she saw it and said she wanted it, so I went back later to buy it.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Well the night before her 4th birthday party, I opened it up, to charge the battery and load songs onto it, so its ready for her.&lt;br /&gt;Well I got it loaded easy, didnt need the drivers for XP.&lt;br /&gt;I tested it and the stupid volume controls didnt work.&lt;br /&gt;So I had to try to fix it for her, cause it was after midnight, and I didnt have time to exchange it before her party.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;So I opened the case up, simply with 1 small Phillips Head screw at the bottom.&lt;br /&gt;Then the rest un-clips from the bottom up.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3216-795280.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 168px; height: 126px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3216-795261.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Once its open, peel off the battery pack, that has double sided tape.&lt;br /&gt;Find the 2 volume buttons, there marked on the board.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;There are 4 terminals for each volume control. I think they only use 2, thats logical, but the other 2 are for mounting.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3211-777373.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 201px; height: 150px;" src="http://www.mark-rodgers.com/uploaded_images/IMG_3211-777354.JPG" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I simply added a tiny amount of solder to each of the pins, using a 25 watt soldering iron, and WALLA! they work now.&lt;br /&gt;I'm not sure what pin on them was bad, but it doesnt hurt to touch up on them all.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I dont know if maybe this one was just bad, or if there are others with problems, but I put this out here, in case other people have the same problem too.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Good Luck!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-8779596472787497397?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/01/hannah-montana-mp3-player-volume-fix_30.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-7238046976655196751</guid><pubDate>Wed, 28 Jan 2009 06:02:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-04-10T02:59:53.792-07:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Lightbar</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Mobile CB</category><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Radios</category><title>My Mobile Radio Setup</title><description>&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Galaxy 959 CB&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I have it tuned down to 1w DeadKey, swings about 10w, with swing kit installed.&lt;br /&gt;I adjusted the tone on the roger beep, and shortened it.&lt;br /&gt;Blue Meter LEDs.&lt;br /&gt;Super Modulation mod. This is the LOUDEST audio CB in the Metro Detroit area. Don't believe me, ask anyone on CH 19 out there.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;UPDATED:&lt;/span&gt; Texas Star 667V with modified SC1446 Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;Road Devil Red Mic, with modded mic element.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Wilson 1000 Roof Mount Antenna.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Bearcat Scanner. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Blue backlight LED mod done.&lt;br /&gt;Mini mag mount, tuned for VHF Hi freqs.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;LED Lightbar&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Light + PA/AirHorn Controller&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-7238046976655196751?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/01/my-mobile-radio-setup.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-2817783223246939907</guid><pubDate>Wed, 28 Jan 2009 05:53:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-01-27T22:00:22.670-08:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>CB Base Radios</category><title>My Base Station Radio Setup</title><description>My base station radio setup:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Galaxy 55 Cb/HAM radio. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Tuned down to 3/4w DK and swings about 8w.&lt;br /&gt;I added a "Roger K" beep to it.&lt;br /&gt;The meter now has a 7 color changing LED in it.&lt;br /&gt;I use a old 80's Turner +2 desk mic.&lt;br /&gt;I also have a Land Matic voice changer, that I can put inline.&lt;br /&gt;I have a RF Limited TRB-1 Echo board that I might put back into the radio sometime.&lt;br /&gt;White Tornado 225w amp. It really only puts out about 150w tho.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I have a 102" stainless steel whip on a 10' pipe mounted on my chimney.&lt;br /&gt;I would use a Antron99 CB base antenna, but Im not allowed to have antennas up here, and this is hidden pretty good, and not easily visible.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Yeasu FT-2500M 2 Meter mobile. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I use a simple mobile 1/4wave dual band antenna on a trucker mount, on my chimney. It works for what I need. I wish I could use my good 15' repeater base antenna tho, but Im not allowed here.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Radio Shack Pro-2030&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;80 Channel, non trunking scanner.&lt;br /&gt;Used to monitor Fire + EMS dispatch.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I used to have a RS Pro-96 Digital scanner, but I was stolen a few years ago.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-2817783223246939907?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/01/my-base-station-radio-setup.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink='false'>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7503013379447869265.post-1809729646748613786</guid><pubDate>Sat, 24 Jan 2009 03:32:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2009-01-23T19:57:56.356-08:00</atom:updated><category domain='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#'>Galaxy Melaka CB Base Mod</category><title>Galaxy Melaka Blue LED Conversion + Mods</title><description>I have a used Galaxy Melaka CB/HAM base station radio that im working on modding and doing a all blue LED conversion on.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;To do the Blue LED mod, I needed SIX 5mm LED's, ONE 470k ohm resistor, and a 2digit channel number LED module.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The MODE selector originally used 6 white 12v wheat lamps.&lt;br /&gt;I removed all 6 lamps, and installed the LEDs, watching the polarity of them. They all share a common POSITIVE, and are selected by the ground.  I had to remove the main POS wire, coming off the voltage regulator board, and I added the 470k ohm resistor in series with the wire, so it drops the voltage from 12v to 3v.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The signal meter also used a 12v wheat lamp.&lt;br /&gt;I replaced that with a Blue LED and a resistor.&lt;br /&gt;I will probably add 2 more LEDs to increase the brightness, due to the black background being kind of dark to see.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The channel display takes a little work to de-solder the original module, and then installing the new one is simple as long as all the PCB holes are good and clean.&lt;br /&gt;It takes 8 pins to desolder and put back in.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I also added a echo board to the radio and mounted the control in the back.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I added a simple swing kit, and tuned the radio to 1w deadkey, swinging 6w.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I also added switchable talkback. Simply cut D80, and install a switch.&lt;br /&gt;Open= ON. Closed=Off.&lt;br /&gt;On this board, there is no way to do a variable talkback, unless you install a seperate talkabck board.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7503013379447869265-1809729646748613786?l=www.mark-rodgers.com%2Fprojects.html'/&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description><link>http://www.mark-rodgers.com/2009/01/galaxy-melaka-blue-led-conversion-mods.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (MRodgers)</author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></item></channel></rss>
